November 2018
When you have a bucket list, it's a great feeling placing a big fat tick next to a place you have visited.
Cambodia was one of the top countries on my bucket list for as long as I can remember. The temples were the reason of wanting to visit, not the movie Tomb Raider :)
Considering I had travelled all the way to Sabah, Malaysia for a month long course, I thought that I might as well stop over in Cambodia. Time only allowed me four days and to get the most out of my visit, Siem Reap was my go to place. Normally I like to do things on my own but not this time...an organised tours it was...
Wait! They may not be for you either but hang in there, some of my tips may still benefit you. Follow the *TIPS below and read on...
So, I flew from Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia to Siem Reap. There are no direct flights so a change in Kuala Lumpur is on the cards. The flight was under £100 on Malaysia Air and took around 6hrs.
*TIP - Currency is US dollars. Don't get Cambodian Riel as, 1. you can't and 2. you don't need it. You may get change in it when you pay in dollars but they are normally only for small denominations that you either use it up, give it as tips or to people on the street.
Prior to arrival, I had booked my stay with Ta Som Guest house on Booking.com. My private room with a fan for 4 nights was US$54 but there are cheaper rooms. Some with just a fan, some with air-con so the choice is yours. The prices are reasonable, private ensuite rooms and family rooms are available, all taxes included and most importantly, free wifi, breakfast and airport shuttle is all included. Breakfasts are, hot drinks and a selection of dishes such as the American - omelette with a crusty French roll, the standard - French roll with jam and butter, the local breakfast - noodles. Seriously, you are spoilt here and the owner, Mr Meng goes out of his way to look after you. Pre-arrange your airport pick up and he will be there!
Okay, so it's not in the centre, close to all the markets and pubs but it's only a 15min walk away or US$1 in a tuk tuk. Tuk Tuks are the best way to get around. They are quick, nifty and reasonable little 3 wheel motorbikes that can take up to 4 passengers.
*TIP - Ensure you haggle with them as some will try and charge you more. A small trip from the guest house to town is no more than US$1 but was charged US$2 before I worked it all out.
Let the exploring begin...
Places I visited and tours I did:
*All my tours were booked through Mr Meng through the guest house. In each tour there were about 8 of us in an air-con mini bus with free water and an English speaking guide.
I'm in no way a historian nor made lengthy notes on the history behind each temple so don't worry, I won't bore you with that part. If you can here for the history, sorry :)
*The most important bit of information: - To visit the temples, you require a TEMPLE PASS. Unlimited temple visits on the days you buy.
1 Day Pass - US$37
2 Day Pass - US$62 <-- The one I went for.
7 Day Pass - US$72
Don't worry, the tour company will take you there on your first day. If not, the tuk tuk drivers know where to go and if you want to make your own way, head to The Angkor Ticket Office (Angkor Enterprise). It is the only place where you can purchase entrance tickets for the Angkor Archaeological Park located on Road 60, 4km away from Siem Reap’s centre. Ensure you have your pass ready at each temple you arrive at. Officials are there to check everyones upon entry.
I chose to do two days of tours due to being absolutely mesmerised by their construction and history. The sandstone and lava rock used to build Angkor temples derived from Kulen mountain. Canals were built to float them down on rafts as well as using the power of elephants to drag them.
*TIP - TEMPLE ETIQUETTE
I shall translate the image on the right.
1. No selfies or photos with the Monks. If you wish to take one, you have to ask for their permission. Do not touch them either.
2. Do not touch the walls of the temples and especially the carvings.
3. Women are not allowed to wear shorts but men are. It has to be trousers and a long sleeved top or scarf that covers your elbows.
4. No climbing the temples. Stay on the designated paths.
5. No shouting. Be civil and respect the religious buildings.
6. No giving money to the children on the temple grounds. You can buy from them though.
7. No littering or smoking in the temple grounds. Bins are provided to be respectful.
Day 1 - Small Circuit tour and Sunset US$11 from 8am - 7pm
Temple pass needed.
Sometimes when you travel alone, you meet more people. On this tour I met two lovely people, both were from India and neither of them knew each other; Chanageep aka. Bob who now lives in London and Mistry who lives in India. I just love travelling and meeting new people.
Small circuit tour because you only visit 4 temples!? Not entirely sure but that's my reasoning. If you are only wanting to do one day and see the the two most famous temples, then this is the tour for you.
Angkor Wat - "City Temple"
Built in the early 12th century by King Suryavarman II, it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This grand structure is the centre of attraction, surrounded by smaller Khmer temples.
Originally it was built for the Hindu god, Vishnu but later became a Buddhist temple closer to the end of the century. Another main attraction is the joining of both Buddhism and Hinduism.
This is the worlds largest religious temple, with five distinguishing towers built atop three levels. A large 2km x 2.5km stone wall surrounds the temple with a 200m wide moat on the outside. The soil that was dug out to form the moat and then used for the base of the temple. After all, the soil had to go somewhere and the moat added that extra protection.
There are many out buildings, known as libraries, long stone walkways on the approach to the temple with spectacular bas-reliefs. These are images that have been carved into the stonework which forms the buildings structure. So many stories can be told form each carving and in Angkor Wat Temple, there are eight. One that stood out was the "Churning of the ocean of milk" where the gods (devas) were fighting the demons (asuras) to reclaim the power back for the gods. You can see the faces of the devas are smiling whilst those of the asuras are serious and mean business. Look carefully for the turtles and fish. Both sides are seen to be playing tug rope with the nine headed snake a serpent referred to as Nāga, another interesting story and a sculpture you see at many temples.
When you get to the top of the temple, there is a small queue (depending on the season I guess) to climb the steep staircase to the highest point and take in the stunning views of the temple grounds below and the scenery beyond.
Within in the temple, there are many rooms, halls and passage ways for you to explore. As seen in the photos above, there are a number of shrines of gods. Here, you can burn a stick of incense for a small donation. In some rooms, you have to remove your shoes, no flash is allowed nor hats can be warn, but signs do warn you of the rules.
The guided tour doesn't allow you much time to visit the market stalls here but generally, you can get it all in the markets in town. There are refreshments and snacks being sold if you get peckish.
Ta Prohm - Tomb Raider Temple
Buddhist temple built in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII
Made famous for being the set for the Tomb Raider movie with Angelina Jolie and one of the most photographed temples.
Nature takes over. Trees tower and roots melt over the stone structure ruins. Many of the walls have collapsed and a major restoration project is underway by the Archaeological Survey of India. Carefully, stones will be placed in the exact place where they originally laid. In some places, look past the scaffolding and admire the beauty. Although it's a small temple and can get busy, there are plenty of amazing trees to see and that chance to get your photo taken in the place the famous movie was set: the iconic window and tree roots where Angelina Jolie stood.
It is on just one level with a few short flight of steps here and there but it is easy for those who would normally struggle. There is a wooden walkway designed for an easy guided walk around to capture the best sights. Look out for the meditating bas-reliefs and all the other intricate carvings.
Bayon Temple
Built in the 13th century as the state temple for the Buddhist King Jayavarman VII. It was later taken over by the Hindu religion, only to revert Back to Buddhism before it was abandoned.
Okay, so Bayon Temple may secretly be one of my favourites. Smiling faces are sculptured on all the peaks of the pillars and if you look closely, you will see lotus flowers at the tops. It's quite a compact temple with many little corners to explore. Each face is unique. some metres tall and others small. Many little passages and rooms. Be sure to look out for all the bas-reliefs of the lady dancers and the many other stories hidden in the stone. Don't forget to have your photo taken, nose to nose with a large face. After all, there are over 200 of them to choose from. Many people say, the face resembles that of King Jayavarman VII himself.
There are steps leading up to the top where you can explore the tiny rooms and get up close to the towering faces. When leaving the temple, there are three headed elephant statues at the gate. Have a look for all four of them. Sadly, some have lost their trunks or part of their head but there is one that is intact (top row, third photo in).
Bakheng Temple and Sunset
Built in the late 9th/early 10th century for the Hindu god Shiva. It is one of the oldest temples in the Angkor Archaeological Park.
Hindu and Buddhist
Unfortunately I never managed to take a photo of the temple itself. I wanted to beat the crowds and get a lanyard as only 200 people are allowed on the top at one time. As the temple is located on top of a 60m high hill, it makes a great spot for the spectacular event which makes this a popular temple to visit last on your rounds: The sunset over Angkor Wat.
*TIP - Be sure to get there early, get a lanyard, head up the steps and find a great spot to the left.
Upon you arrival here, you will see a number of Asian elephants being ridden by tourists. This is certainly an activity I will never support. They are not meant for riding and the methods used to train them are extreme! People may have different opinions on this matter but as a conservation scientist, I would never partake in such so I cannot provide any details of pricing etc.
Grand tour US$14
Temple pass needed for each one so keep it close to hand.
No friends were made on this tour but I still enjoyed it all.
Banteay Srei - "Citadel of Women"
Built in the 10th century and dedicated to the Hindu god, Shiva. The only temple that was not built by the monarch but by the councillor of the King Rajendravarman II.
Located after a short walk, past flooded pastures with wading water buffalo, you will be met by the remains of a corridor that leads you to this beautiful temple. Very red compared to any of the others I have seen due red sandstone being used for it's construction. Grasses have rooted themselves on the rooftops so nothing like the trees of Ta Prohm temple.
That aside, this temple oozes feminism in the intricate bas-reliefs. Lava rock (looks like a sponge) is starting to appear more for the main walls and sandstone used for the iconic decorations. It's a much better stone to carve and some say, it's as soft as wood. The detail in the bas-reliefs is the best I have ever seen. With the two libraries and the sanctuary cordoned off, you are still able to appreciate the beauty within. The faces, the behaviours, animals, flowers and much more are deeply carved, with each one telling you the whole story. Borders along the door frames, on the walls and pillars are all so intricately done with no faults in the repetition.
My photos do not do this temple any justice! It is on one level and every side tells a different story. Look out for the different, prominent statues guarding each door. There are four, a lion, a monkey, a bird and if I remember right, a monkey again.
There are gift shops, food and drink vendors and toilets here and signage about the temple if you wish to learn more.
South Gate
The South Gate is not a temple itself, but the best preserved gate out of the five of Angkor Thom. Certainly worth a stop off.
It was built under King Jayavarman VII.
You will see the statues on either side of the causeway over the moat, that on the one side you have the gods pulling a snake (nãga) and on the other, demons pulling a nãga. Again, this is a common them throughout most of the temples. Some of the heads are missing from the statues due to thieves or being in museum collections and the ones htat remain are so weathered.
Preah Khan - "Royal Sword"
It was built in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII to honour his father.
Originally a Buddhist temple but later, a number of additional out buildings appearing to be Hindu were constructed.
This flat temple is an easy walk with many little internal rooms to explore. In the central gallery, the hall of dangers sits an elderly Buddhist lady offering a blessing and a woven cotton bracelet. As a good gesture, a donation never goes a miss.
Bas-reliefs of woman dancers, mythical creatures, animals and religious symbols amongst many others decorate the walls, doors and roof structures. Have a look closely at some of the reliefs and you will see, where Buddha once was carved, he is no longer there. You can see this in one of the picture above. When the temples were taken over by the Hindu religion, the people were ordered to remove all carvings of Buddha from all the temples. Many were chipped out and statues destroyed. Moss and trees tried to take over but through restoration projects, the tree growth was put to a halt but the dead roots remain.
When you leave this beautiful temple, you walk along a walk way lines with sculptures and walking and met by a few children selling souvenirs. Follow the walkway, through the trees and you will then be met by a gorgeous water body. It's not a natural lake but a man-made rectangular water storage reservoir known as a baray. Such gorgeous views with dried trees towering above the waters, acting as a perching site for storks.
Neak Pean - "The entwined serpents"
Built in the late 12th century by King Jayavarman VII. It sits on a round man-made island in the middle of the baray attached to Preah Khan temple.
After a gorgeous long walk along a wooden walkway above the baray, with the sights of storks in trees and fish amongst the weeds, you approach Neak Pean. It's certainly one of the smallest temples I have visited. You can only walk around half of it as the other half is closed off for reasons unknown. There are five ponds, one large one in the centre with horses galloping towards the temple and on the other side you can see the entertwined tail of nãga. On either side of the larger pond are smaller ponds, each representing water, wind, earth and fire. These are modelled by animals. To the north, an elephant, west - horse, south - lion and to the east - human.
It was thought back in the 12th century that the waters of this temple were healing and people came here to cure their many ailments.
This is a flat and easy walk.
Ta Som
Built in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII of which he dedicated to his father.
Buddhist Temple
We entered from the eastern side but not through the main entrance but to the right of it, past a gorgeous tree. Left largely unrestored, nature again has taken over where strangler fig tree roots extend down the ruins. Again, there are many reliefs of women partaking in different activities: looking in the mirror, dancing, posing (pictured) and socialising. Lava rock was again used for the main structures and sandstone for the carved reliefs. Look out for the main tower with the smiling face said to be the kings.
At the one far entrance you will be met by souvenir sellers and children, some swinging on the lianas and no, it's not Jane! You cannot go out this way but the pond and the tree are a gorgeous photo opportunity.
A flat and east temple to walk around.
East Mebon
Not sure the English meaning but I shall name it the "Elephant temple".
Built by King Rajendravarman in the 10th century who dedicated it to the Hindu god Shiva. It was once was surrounded by water but that has since dried up.
There is a steep staircase leading to the top but you have a chance to wander the three tiers. At each corner of the lower and middle tier stand life size Asian elephant statues, in honour of the animal who helped construct the temple. At the top are lion statues and a pillar at each corner with a central tower.
Not much time is needed here but the elephant statues are a grand sight.
Kulen Mountain US$35
You don't need a temple pass for this tour but I would recommend a car, taxi or organised tour as it is a long journey and a tuk tuk may be too dusty and far.
Met some lovely people on this trip. Two from California, USA - Johanna and Victoria
Kulen Mountain
We were driven up this windy road surrounded by forest, nearly to the top. Upon arrival you will walk through a small market, selling anything from swim shorts to scorpions in jars. A steady stairway with a nãga on either side will lead you to a few shrines, an instrumental band where the musicians are victims of landmines and a monk giving blessings.
From here, you can remove your shoes and had, ladies must cover up and you can climb a short staircase where the lying Buddha awaits. This is a large carving into the mountains rock at the peak of Buddha laying down in the shelter of a decorated room. You may place a gift, normally a flower at the base of the statue and walk around, leaving from behind.
There is a sense of peace and calmness here, despite all the people wanting to view the magnificent statue.
The Valley of 1000 Lingas
A brief drive down from the mountain is a stop off where you can walk towards the river and see the lingas below the shallow waters. Lingas are a sign or abstract of the Hindu deity, Shiva and in the centre of them, some would put a carving of a penis. These were once all removed so all that is left in the temples are the bases. This is why, at many souvenir markets they sell penises carved out of wood or bone.
After searching the net, only on my return, I noticed that we werent even taken to the actual 1000 lingas. We saw the carvings in the river bed as seen in the pictures above but from what I have seen now, we were meant to see carvings of people and mythical beings in waterfalls and in the bedrock.
*TIP - Make sure you go to the right place as it is way more spectacular than what I saw!
Torquise pool
Just a little walk along the path from the lingas (not the real ones) is a torquies pool lined with white sand. Apparently the warm, volcanic water is known to have healing properties.
Kulen Mountain Waterfall
Don't forget to pack a costume and towel. Last stop of the day was the waterfall. There is a massive parking lot and food markets and souvenirs stalls mark the way to the waterfall. The battered banana was delicious but the calories were certainly not welcomed.
It's a two tiered waterfall but the top plunge pool seems too crowded so follow the path to the bottom. Be careful as the stairs are sturdy but scary and super steep. At the base there are lockers and changing rooms that come with a charge of US$1 each. You can also hire out tubes for US$1 but I swam and walked. Majority of it is only 1.5m deep with a sandy bottom.
It was freezing! Once you are in and swim a bit, you soon warm up.
At around 10m high, it's a pretty sight. Don't be alarmed when you receive a free pedicure from the fish below. Some can get over excited and their bite can be a little aggressive but still not enough for it to break the skin. It tickles and they become obsessed.
Floating Village, mangrove and sunset tour US$18
You don't need a temple pass for this tour
Well, the description is in the name. I started the tour at 12pm as I wanted to get the sunset in. There is the morning tour but why would you want to miss the gorgeous sunset at the end of the day!?
After a short drive out to Tolne Sap Lake, we stopped off at a few shops to stock up on snacks and drinks. Do it! You won't regret it. There are also toilets for that last relief before the tours.
We were allocated numbers which corresponded to the boat we were to board. Once you are on the boat, depending on the operator, driver and boat design, you could sit on the roof. Do that too! The sights are way better from the top.
You pass through the floating village where more than 2000 people live and have a diet on the life under the waters. The houses are on stilts, towering above the water with a lower section for their fishing gear, mainly nets and the top storey is the living quarters. Each house has its' own characteristic, be it colours or artwork or a selection of plant pots with brightly arranged flowers.
You pass children playing in canoes, church buildings and schools with a backdrop of mangrove trees.
Once you have passed the stilted homes, you stop off at a floating platform where you can purchase a ticket for US$5 to go on a canoe either alone or buddies up with another lonely soul. These tours are run by the women of the village and if they have children, they come along too. Don't be fooled by their cuteness as they are there to guilt you into giving a bigger tip. It was me and a German lady on the canoe with two children belonging to our guide. The whole time the little girl, no older than 5yrs old was asking me for a tip. Perhaps the only English word she knew. She was adorable though and her 1yr old sister was also cute.
We stopped near a canoe where a lady was selling supplies such as drinks, snacks and stationary. She pushed us into buying a drink for our guide, despite her having many unopened drinks, a bunch of bananas for the monkeys and stationary for the children. The bananas went to waste as our guide never even stopped off at the platform for us to throw the bananas on for the monkeys. Guess each guide is different and she already had a long day. The tour was over in 10min but the mangrove was stunning.
You stop off at a floating restaurant where you can eat but it was so expensive. No one ate here, and there were loads of us! This is where the food you bought at the shop comes in handy.
After waiting for your boat number to arrive, you hop on board and off you go. I climbed straight to the top as no way did I want to be at the bottom and miss that sunset. Figuring where the sun would set, I made sure I sat at the side I would get the best view which was to the left when you climb the stairs.
*TIP - sit at the top of the boat
George, a lone traveller from India sat near me and we got chatting. He worked as a psychiatrist and had been travelling South East Asia alone. So, we watched the sunset with the rest of the boat and chatted non stop. I had bought an extra beer, two for me or one to give away and yup, George got it so we could cheer to the end of a great trip seeing that it was my last night here.
Places I ate:
Temple is a restaurant chain with great food, settings, drinks and entertainment. I found the pricing reasonable for a treat and the selection of food was endless, Western and Asian! On my first night, I found the one located at D4 on the map above (Achar Svr Str) - Temple Coffee n Bakery on the Siem Reap river. Arrive just before sunset, ask to be seated on the rooftop seating area where there are tables, beanbags and live music. Sit back with a gorgeous cocktail and indulge in the Cambodian cuisine. I hadn't done my research into Cambodian food, nor did I ask the waiter for help so I ordered what sounded fresh; the papaya salad. Little did I know it would be full of chillies and 7 whole crab bodies. So, unless you like crabs and hot food, order away but I am not a fan of crab so my initial curiosity and excitement was shot. The cocktails were gorgeous, the sunset was pretty and all the food that went to other tables looked great!
The other Temple restaurant was on Pub Street. This is where I came for a full English breakfast. If you have been on the road and really crave that taste of home, these guys smashed it! Super reasonable and you get to sit and people watch on one of the busiest streets.
Street food!
I mainly at food from food carts along the canal, at the Old Market (G3 on the above map). At US$1 you get a plateful of noodles or rice with vegetables of your choice and meat if you want. All freshly prepared in front of you, you can then sit on the chairs provided and enjoy. Stalls nearby sell drinks at US$1.
It's a bargain
It's the cheapest in town
It's super tasty
It's the best
The service is fantastic!
Pub Street!
It's in the name...a street full of pubs. Go! It's a great experience with restaurants serving different foods from local cuisine to Mexican. So many little alleyways have pubs and restaurants too but we tended to stay on the main stretch so we could watch the world go by. We, being Bob and Mistry. Pints of beer can start from 50c and cocktails can be found at US$1. Alcohol is so cheap! I never hug out here much nor did I party but there are so many offers for club entries and the street has enough music blasting onto if for you to stay there and enjoy the night. It's one big street party every night.
Various little stalls serving ice-cream made in front of you with a menu full of fruity options. For just a few dollars, you can be sent to yummy heaven.
Critters on Pub Street
What upset me was seeing kids at around 11yrs old late at night (11pm), selling critters on the street. Critters such as deep fried scorpions, spiders, crickets, snakes and other bugs. If you want to take a photo, you have to pay a dollar. If you want to taste something, it's 50c. I did neither as I didn't want to encourage child labour. You can also see these at the markets and the same pricing occurs.
Must do's: - Temples - Small Circuit tour if you want to just do one day
- Pub street
- Old Market
- Night Market
- Kulen Mountain incl. 1000 lingas and the waterfall.
Other sights that I didn't get to do:
- Flight of the Gibbon Experience
- Go to a Phare Circus. A friend went and enjoyed it. No animals were used, just acrobats
- Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary
- The Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity - 1hr tuk tuk ride out of Siem Reap and a minimum donation of US$3. Visiting hours are Monday to Saturday at 9am or 1.30pm for a 1.5hr tour.
- Cooking classes
TATTOO
Oh my word! I am scared of needles and have a reputation of fainting, but I went and did it! I got a tattoo and all by myself.
RSD Tattoo studio was amazing. Walking into their studio was like I was on the set of Miami or LA Ink. The music and decor was very unique but very professional.
Siden was my tattooist, a famous rapper in Cambodia and an awesome tattooist. His design work was fast and accurate, producing something from virtually nothing. We sat down together and had my tattoo designed within an hour and generally, the appointments are just a drop in. No prior time needed to be agreed. As my tour finished too late, I had to go back the next day. Damn! I had psyched myself up as I was super scared. The tattooist assured me that they would give me breaks, pop an relaxing oil under my nose to calm me, give amp a foot massage...wait, what! A foot massage you say!? Yes, a foot massage if you feel faint. Seriously, these guys are fantastic!
- Lion - for the courage I've had since leaving home and starting a new life in a new country at the age of 17yrs old.
- Flower is a flame Lilly. The national flower of Zimbabwe, my place of birth. Each petal resembles each of my family members and the stamens, there are four, each representing my grand parents.
- Three dots at the top are for my nieces and nephew - three of them.
- Diamonds represent my life growth stages.
WHAT A TRIP! WHAT AN EXPERIENCE!!!
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